Using Puppy Pads to Housebreak your Puppy


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We introduce puppy pads into our dogs pen from the first day they are born. By week three the puppies are able to migrate away from their sleeping area to the puppy pads (designated potty area) in the pen. We continue to use the puppy pads up until they leave for their new homes.

 Why do we choose this method? Very simply put, convenience. It is just easier for us to use this method. Try to imagine how difficult it would be to housetrain 5 or sometimes 6 puppies at one time.

We do employ methods to get our puppies acquainted with using the doggy door and encourage them to learn by example from our adult dogs where to do their business. Some of our puppies, depending on how long they are with us, go to their new homes with at least an initiation to outdoor potty training.

The basic concept of using puppy pads is this. The pads are chemically treated, to induce, and attract the puppy to use it for the purpose of elimination. Basically it becomes a designated area inside the house where your puppy can soil. The trick is to always leave the paper in the exact same spot in the room, so that he automatically knows where to go.

Once the puppy has mastered this and is using the pads consistently, you will want to move the puppy pad (“designated potty area”) closer to the door until finally it is outside in the “outside designated potty area”.

Here are the benefits to this method : 

Puppy pad training is accomplished relatively easy.

 
 

 

 

It can be beneficial for people who work and are not able to use the crate training method because they can’t or don’t have anyone who can, come and let the puppy out after a few hours of being crated. 
Beneficial for people who  live in very harsh weather, snow or rain in the winter, too hot in the summer.

Beneficial for people  who live in apartments, and do not have yards to utilize.

Puppy pads are usually used for the toy breeds such as the Shih Tzu.

There are a few cons which I will list.

Having a pad laying out on your floor can be unsightly. The cost can add up using these pads so you will probably want to use it more than once, therefore you will have a soiled pad out on your floor.

Sometimes a bored or mischievous puppy will take the pad and chew it apart into a million little pieces,  even if you use a tray that is designed to anchor the pad, then he will not have a place to soil on,  and you will not only have the mess of the shredded paper , but also the mess of his  pee and poop to clean up.

It has been said that puppies that have been trained for a period of time with puppy pads take longer to learn to go potty outside.

By using puppy pads, you are saying it is okay to potty inside the house, even if it is in a designated area.
Dogs and puppies do not always differentiate between an expensive throw rug and a puppy pad.

If your ultimate goal is to get him to go outside , then you will just be adding one more step in housebreaking your puppy, by using  the puppy pads.

 
 

 

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Housebreaking Methods

 

There are a few different methods for housebreaking your puppy, namely, housetraining to puppy pads, crate training, constant vigilance and litter box training. Families will ask me all the time which method I recommend, I tell them that there really is not right method; there is only the right method that will work for your family and life style. I encourage them to make an informed decision after they have researched the different methods. They are the only ones who can say what will work best for their family and life style.

I want to touch on the two most popular methods, (puppy pads and crate training), just to give you a general idea of the concepts, and pros and cons of each. Further research is encouraged to learn the “how to” of each method. You should know that whatever method you chose, keys to success in puppy potty training are structure, schedule, vigilance and a lot of patience.

Next post coming up “Housebreaking to Puppy Pads”

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Shih Tzu Tear Staining

 

Tear Staining on Shih Tzu can be very obvious on a puppy with light or white colored coat. There are a few different reasons why this problem can occur. One of the more common causes of staining is excessive tearing or epiphora. The reasons behind excessive tearing can range anywhere from allergies, transitional teething stages, blocked tear ducts, hair acting as an irritant, ear infection, entropion( a serious condition where part or all of the eyelid is rolled back) to genetic predisposition.

When a Shih Tzu has excessive tearing, the hair and the skin around the eyes stays damp and can lead to the growth of bacteria and yeast. Red Yeast is a common outcome of excessive tearing, and produces stains that are reddish brown in color.

Tear staining can be an indication of a health problem, but hygiene, transitional stages and hereditary can contribute as well.

When your puppy cuts his teeth, his mouth and head structure are undergoing changes that may put pressure on his tear ducts. Tears overflow onto his cheeks and cause staining. This problem usually goes away when his adult teeth come in.

 

Taking the puppy to the vet can help determine the cause and can enable you to get the problem under control.

There are also preventative steps you can take to help alleviate the staining.

You can try feeding your dog half a Tums in the morning and evening.

Add a teaspoon of white vinegar, apple cider vinegar or lemon juice in his water. Vinegar is a natural antibacterial and changes the ph of the water. He may not like the smell and taste at first, but he will get use to it.

Make sure any food or treats you offer your puppy have no added color. White or pale colored treats are best. The added coloring can contribute to staining.

Sometimes the water in your area can be hard and high in iron content, which might contribute to the staining, using bottled water is a good preventative measure.

 

Providing him water from a water bottle with a spigot  will help since his face will not get as wet as if he were drinking from a bowl.

If you do use a bowl for his water, make sure it is stainless steel, or ceramic (food quality). Plastics can discolor faces, and absorb odors.

Some people believe that adding a teaspoon of plain yogurt to their puppy’s diet once a week will fight the yeast that is causing the red stains to begin with, this, along with daily wiping the hair around the eyes. It will take a few weeks to see results.

Some people use Vaseline, on the stain, it really does not help to remove the stain but allows easier cleaning, with no gunk buildup.

I like to use a mixture of equal parts of water, and 3% hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball to clean around the eyes and mouth, as part of daily grooming. Then I apply corn starch (not talc) with my fingers (to work it in) on the area. This helps to keep the area dry.

There are a multitude of products you can purchase to remove the stains. One is a product called “Angel Eyes” that is added into their food, some people have had success with it. Another called “Eye Envy “has gotten decent reviews.

Researching the internet I have come across this formula quite a few times, for a homemade remedy. Mix equal parts of Philips Milk of Magnesium, hydrogen peroxide (3%), and corn starch. Use a toothbrush being very careful not to get the mixture into the puppy’s eyes, apply creamy paste to the affected area, leave on for about 10 -30 minutes Do not apply where the dog could ingest it. Repeat a few days later, once the stains have been reduced you should only have to apply once a month for maintenance.

 

 

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Reverse Sneezing

Here is the scenario: your precious little Shih Tzu suddenly starts making snorting and grunting noises and appears to be gasping for air. His elbows have turned out, his neck is extended and his eyes are bulging. What, you may wonder is going on with him? Before you pick him up and rush him to the vet, be aware that he is probably experiencing a condition commonly referred to as reverse sneezing. It can be quite a scary event to witness especially if you are not aware of this condition.

Reverse sneezing is common to the Shih Tzu as well as to other small breeds. Some have the condition all their lives and others develop it as they get older. It is not actually a sneeze but is a spasm caused by an irritation of the soft palate.

You can help alleviate the snorting and grunting, during a reverse sneezing attack by massaging his upper throat area, causing your dog to swallow or by briefly closing off the dogs nostrils with your fingers. This is not a serious condition in itself, and if you should not be available as the dog is experiencing an attack, your dog will recover on his own.

 

 

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Copraphagia

 
Copraphagia is the technical term for “stool eating”. This is not just exclusive to the Shih Tzu, but is a natural occurrence in many canine breeds, especially as puppies. However not all breeds indulge, just as not all Shih Tzu. I have owned Shih Tzu who have never had an inclination for it and others that just seem to love it. In my experience it appears that it is the females who are much more likely to develop this habit. (although that does not mean the males are exempt). 
As nasty, disgusting, and repulsive as we may find it, it is believed to be a natural scavenger instinct, carried over from their ancestors in the wild , and thought to serve a purpose, the practice helped to keep the den clean, removed smells that could attract a predator, and was useful when food was in short supply. 

Some of the theories surrounding this behavior suggest that it is caused by a dietary deficiency, pancreatic enzyme deficiency, boredom or worse yet the puppy came from a puppy mill environment. None of these theories carry merit in themselves, although indeed some may or may not be contributing factors. 

It is important to realize that this is normal behavior in a mother Shih Tzu or a mother in any breed. Newborn puppies are born without the ability to urinate or defecate on their own. The mother dogs must lick their bottoms in order to stimulate them to eliminate. Then the mother consumes the excrement in order to provide a clean and safe environment for the puppies. Some believe that this behavior is a trait picked up by the puppies, and considered highly intelligent behavior in the puppy world, rather than how we as humans view it with contempt. 

If you discover that your puppy is eating feces, here are a few suggestions. First and foremost the best solution is prevention. Work on this as soon as you notice the dog showing interest its feces. Early intervention gets quicker results. Do not allow your dog to have access to it’s feces. This can be accomplished by vigilance and immediately picking up the feces and disposing of it. After your dog has been fully housetrained and the habit has died out, then you will only have to pick up after him once a day. 
If you witness your dog ‘s interest peaked by it’s feces, use a very loud voice to detract him from his intended mission. Finally teach him the command “drop it”.  I was so happy that my dog had mastered going outside to eliminate, but much to my horror she was trying to bring back into the house what she had eliminated outside! We both learned the “drop it” command real quick. 

The interest in this habit will fade after a while as the dog has been prevented from consuming. 

There are products you can purchase that are designed to help with this problem and some home remedies. I have tried some, but not had much success with them. I include them here for you to try at  your own discretion, 

“Deter”( tablets) you can conceal in their food or hide in a treat. 

“ Forbid” 

“S.E.P.” (stop eating poop) a product from Solid Gold 

Home Remedies: Try adding one of the following to their food, (it is suppose to make the feces taste undesirable to them). 

Adolph’s Meat Tenderizer 

Zucchini 

Pineapple 

A few tablespoons of canned Pumpkin. (I have had the most success with canned pumpkin. You can give them a couple of tablespoons of pure pumpkin or bake it in a dog treat for them.) 

Cantaloupe 

Here are a few suggestions from fellow Shih Tzu owners:

Tabasco Sauce:

Not recommended for dogs younger than 6 months old, and probably should be used only when all else has failed. Bait the feces with a good dose of Tabasco sauce, and leave it accessible to the dog. This usually provides good results, since ingesting it once usually deters your dog for months. Repeat if the habit should appear again. Or you can use dried red pepper flakes, the kind used on pizza

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Training your dog to eat slower:

The theory here is that dogs eat their poop when they eat too fast, and the food does not have time to digest, so when they poop after they eat, the poop is like fresh dog food for him.To remedy this, start out by giving him a tiny bit of food in his bowl.After he has finished this give him a little bit more, then again and again, until he has eaten all his food. This should teach him to slowdown when eating, and he won’t be tempted to eat his own poop. If this doesn’t work give him cantaloupe in his food. 

The Reward system: 

Here is how we used the reward system in getting our dog to stop eating it’s feces. When she went and didn’t eat her feces we rewarded her with a treat. When she went and did eat her poop and we caught her, she got no treat. She soon got the picture. This did not change over night, it took several months with close monitoring. This system was also used for a urinating problem, and worked for that as well. 

As with all things concerning Shih Tzu, patience and perseverance is key in helping your Shih Tzu overcome this habit. Most Shih Tzu simply outgrow it. 

  
 

 

 

 

 

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Your Puppy’s First Night Home

 

 No doubt you have heard horror stories about puppy’s first night in his new home. I refer to it as the rite of passage of new puppy ownership. I hope to help you and your puppy transcend this rite with the minimum of discomfort by providing these tips and suggestions.

 First of all, keep in mind, your new puppy will probably be a little disoriented when you first take him home. Since the day he was born, he has been accustomed to the sounds, smells and routine of our (breeders) household. He has come to recognize and respond to our voices and our household rules. He has been with his littermates, playing, eating, and sleeping on a 24 hour basis, not to mention becoming familiar with the adult dogs we have in our home as well. The transition to his new home will not necessarily be spontaneous. Please be patient with him, and give him a chance to become accustomed to his new surroundings, his new name, and to you, his new pack leader. I am sure with just a little time and a lot of patience and love, he will integrate completely with your family. With all the excitement of being introduced to his new home and family, he probably hasn’t had the time to experience missing his former home and family. But when night time falls and all is still and quiet, reality sets in. While some puppies are just fine with their new transition, others might need a little help.

 Here are some suggestions. Use a  crate (pet taxi) for him to sleep in. Putting a puppy in a crate or pet taxi appeals to his natural instinct as a den animal and should provide him with some measure of security.  Another advantage to this is based on the principle that dogs do not like to soil where they sleep. So the puppy will be more inclined to alert you by crying or whining when he needs to eliminate. By encouraging this natural instinct you can make gains on his housebreaking.  

At sleeping time place the blanket and stuffed toy we have provided for him into his crate with him. In an effort to make the transition as smooth as possible, before your puppy leaves our home, we (Sweet, Cute, and Cuddly Pups), introduce the blanket and the plush toy we provide, into the living quarters of the litter to capture the scent of the mother and litter mates. If you did not get your puppy from us I am sure your breeder will do it for you, if asked.

 Other objects that may provide comfort for him are a hot water bottle, (the warmth will simulate one of his littermates), a ticking alarm clock wrapped up in a towel, (simulates his mothers heartbeat) an article of your clothing, (makes him feel near you), a radio playing softly to soothe. Place the crate as close to your bed as possible.

 His first night home will be more comfortable for him if the above steps are followed. If after you have done all this for him and he still starts to whine and cry, please, understand that he is just a puppy. He is missing his mother and litter mates, so is entitled to cry, and is instinctively calling out to them so they can be reunited. He is also missing the familiar sight, sounds, and smells, and the routine he has become accustomed to. Be patient with him, but also firm and consistent. Do not pay attention to his cries. Once he settles down, quietly praise him.

What should you do if his crying and whining continues because he is lonely and seeking attention?  Well, puppies crave attention. To them even negative attention, is better than no attention, so refrain from responding. Do not take him out of his crate, do not pick him up and do not hold and coddle him. If you do, you will have reinforced, a negative way for him to get what he wants from you. He will continue to cry, all the more, once you try and put him back. You and he will be better off by trying this, simply reach down and lightly sooth him,but if he continues to cry, give him a gruff command of quiet and a quick but gentle shake on the scruff of the neck, to settle him down. If that doesn’t work, then use the grin and bear it approach, and know it will get better with time. Please know that this transition is evitable but also is short lived,and just like with your infants, the sleepless nights will become  a vague memory. 

Now if your puppy should cry in the middle of the night, he might need to go potty, you should immediately get up and take him to his special bathroom area. Puppies have small bladders, so a good way to measure how long the puppy can wait between bathroom outings during the night is the puppy’s age in months plus one, (a puppy two months old, plus one should be taken out every three hours). So, at eight weeks of age, you can figure that the puppy will most likely have two outings in the middle of the night. When you take him outside, you can use the command that you and your family have decided on. When he does his duties, praise him and take him back to his crate, and ignore him, so he can learn to settle down quietly again.

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A List of Essential Grooming Supplies for Your Shih Tzu

     I have purchased many different tools and supplies  through the years, some I have liked and kept, and others I have discarded. This is a list and pictures of examples of products that  I consider “essential”, for use on my Tzus.   

 Pin Brush.  This brush is helpful for getting out tangles and mats on long haired dogs .  

 Slicker Brush.   This is the brush you will most likely use most often. At least it’s the one I find most useful. It is a brush with flexible pins used to help detangle the Shih Tzu coat on the body. Here is  an example:       

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

  Nail Clippers: If your Shih Tzu is still a young puppy, his nails will be easy enough to trim with the human type fingernail clippers. but as he gets older his nails will thicken up , and you will have to use the dog type variety on him. Here is an example of my old standby pair. Nothing fancy , just does the job.   

    

    

Pedipaws   

I like this, I have the professional model (due to the number of dogs I have).  It is electric, not battery operated. It is used to file down the nails , not clip them.  Once you and your Tzu get use to it it is fantastic.   

    

   Face Finishing Comb  

This fine toothed comb is used around their facial area to remove any tangles and debris near the mouth and eyes.  

 
  
  
  
  
Finishing Comb
Used after you have completely brushed out their coat with the slicker brush. Where the slicker brush generally brushes the surface, this comb  because of its longer tines is used to locate deeper seated mats, next to the skin.

 

 
 
 
 
 
Hemostats
For helping to remove any excess hair in the ear canal opening.You can also extract the hair manually, by plucking the hair out a little at a time with your fingers wearing a glove and using a couple of shakes of ear powder.

  

 
 
Ball End Scissors
Used to trim hair around the anal area, to help avoid what I refer to as “Butt Nuggets”. They can also be used to trim the hair on the paw pads. The ends are rounded, as a safety precaution.
 

  

Shampoo and Conditioner 

 I have tried many different shampoos and conditioners. I think its all a matter of personal preference.  

   

Styptic Powder   

Good  as a  first aid to help stop the nail from bleeding should you trim too close to the quick. 

 
 
 
Rotating Tooth Comb 
The idea behind this comb is to help detangle the coat as you  comb through, without causing much discomfort to your Tzu. The tines turn and help ease the tangle out. I would be lost without mine. 

   

  
 
 
 
These are the essential  grooming supplies you need to get started. It is in no way everything you will ever need, or ever want to try. ( For instance you may want to add clippers , ear or eye wash,etc. ) A lot depends on how extensive you will be grooming your own dog. You can always add to your grooming supplies as time goes on, and as your pocket book can handle.
 
 
 
 
 

  

  

  

 

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Getting Your Shih Tzu Use to Being Groomed

Rocky

Shih Tzu require quite a bit more maintenance in the grooming department. A thorough brushing daily, as well as wiping clean the face, ears and eyes, along with periodic bathing, summarizes this breed’s grooming routine. The aforementioned grooming routine is one that I refer to as home maintenance. That does not include the regular visits to the professional groomer, where they perform services on your dog that you would never even consider doing.(How about excreting the anal glands as an example.)

Whether you are servicing your dog yourself, or taking him to a professional, it is most important to get him accustomed to this routine early, in fact I believe the earlier the better. We here at Sweet, Cute and Cuddly Pups purposely handle our puppies, very early on, not only to love on them, but to get them use to being touched and worked with. We precondition them to being groomed by applying slight pressure to their ears, legs,toes, tail, and faces, as we hold them. We use brushes and combs on them just so they will get accustomed to these tools. We trim their nails, bathe them and trim the hair around their buttocks , to prevent what we jokingly refer to as”Butt Nuggets” We even acquaint them to the sound of the electric clippers, and the sound of the blow dryer as well. We feel that all this is a very important part in our puppy socialization, because being groomed is such an essential part of a Shih Tzus life.

We encourage our new puppy owners to continue with this part of socialization to insure that they have a well behaved beautiful well maintained Shih Tzu. I cannot tell you how many times people have commented to me (after viewing some of my demonstation videos) how well behaved my Tzus are while being groomed. They go on to say that their own Tzu would never be as calm and relaxed as are my guys. This was not something that happened over night. It was something I was able to accomplish by grooming routinely, and excersizing alot of patience and gentleness. (now if I could only get them to not act so crazy when the doorbell rings! We are working on it!)

So what do you do if you find that your Shih Tzu becomes the Tasmanian Devil when it comes to grooming? Relax its never too late The only way your Shih Tzu is going to get use to being groomed is by grooming him on a regular basis, and introducing him to the various tools and equipment used. Its called conditioning, the more it is applied the more accustomed he will get to it. If there is a particular tool he is adverse to,(for an example lets say, a brush) introduce it first, by eyesight, do this until he can look at it and not get crazy, and then by feel, holding it next to his head with the back of the brush against him, until he is comfortable, then brush once, next time twice and so on, all the while waiting until he is comfortable with each new step before moving on..Oh and did I mention that my Tzus react very positive to bite size rewards?

I am not an expert in animal behavior, all I can share is what has worked for me.

Once you’ve reached your goal of creating a calm and submissive subject, the grooming routine can be used to your advantage. Use this time to bond with your Tzu by interacting with him on a one on one basis, thereby building trust. Use this opportunity to become aware of any problems that may be starting to develop on your Tzus skin, coat, ears, and eyes. Getting your Shih Tzu accustomed to being groomed will not only make the process more enjoyable for him, but it will be lot less stressful for you. Your groomer will be appreciative of all your efforts also.

Coming Next : A list of essential grooming supplies:

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Chiengora

My first association with this word pronounced “She angora” was when a sweet lady came to my house to look at one of my Shih Tzus to purchase. She had just lost her precious Shih Tzu of fourteen years, a couple of months prior to her visit. As she proceeded to tell me about her loss, she reached in her purse and pulled out a skein of yarn. She went on to telll me that over the years she had collected the hair her Shih Tzu had shed from brushing and by salvaging the hair from his haircuts, until she had enough to have his hair spun into yarn. She said that she was so grateful that she had done that because now that he was gone, she felt that she still had a part of him with her. It was her intention to have a scarf knitted from the yarn so that she could wear him close to her heart. I was moved and touched by her story, and at the same time thought it a little “different.” I asked her where she had gotten it done, and she informed me that there were plenty of sites on the internet that provided this service.
Sites:
www.etsy.com/…/24165549/chiengora-custom-dog-hair-spinning
http://www.seasidespinnery.com/chiengora.htm
www.chiengorafibers.com
Just to name a few.
 
 
 After doing some investigating, I discovered that this is not a new trend or idea, in fact the prehistoric Scandinavians and Navajo Indians spun dog hair into their clothing along with mohair and cashmere, which is nothing more than glorified goat hair. Dog hair was the main fiber spun in North America at that time since the Spaniards had yet to introduced sheep to the continent
 
Dog yarn even has its own name, “Chiengora”. Taken from the French word Chien which means dog, and angora for the soft texture of rabbit fur. I have to say that the yarn this lady showed me was lovely, soft and fuzzy.
 
Here are a few facts pertaining to Chiengora. It is 80% warmer than wool, sheds water well and has a similar appearance to angora.
Some people are a little put off by the thought of wearing dog hair. Some of their fears are, will they smell like a dog? or worst yet, if it should get wet will they smell like a wet dog? After the hair is harvested they put it through a cleaning process to clean and deodorize it. Each company has their own procedure to accomplish this. So, to address this fear, you would no more smell like a dog wearing Chiengora than you would smell like a sheep wearing wool. Albeit that these natural fibers do have their own unique scent.
 
Some people are allergic to dogs and cats, but their allergies do not stem from the hair as much as from the animals dander and saliva, after the hair is spun into yarn it is washed again to remove any allergy offending material.
 
People are also concerned as to how this hair is harvested. No dogs are hurt in the process. The hair that is lost in the natural shedding process is the hair that is used, along with any hair salvage from haircuts, if that hair is long enough.

What can be done with the yarn ? Here a few beautiful examples of how to utilize your chiengora yarn 
 
  Please take my survey:

http://tzukeeper.surveydaddy.com/s/would-you-wear-clothing-made-out-of-dog-hair 

 

 

 

 

 

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Doggie Dress from a Thrift Store Find

I wanted to experiment with a dress for my female Shih Tzu. I went to my local thrift store and bought this little infants dress in size 12 months, for only $1.75. My female weighs about 7 lbs so I did need to cut off some excess material. Please click on the pictures for more detailed instructions, and view.

First I cut off the elastic from the sleeves

I finished the edges of the sleeves. Then I turned the dress inside out. And I laid it out lengthwise. After determining her chest measument I marked the dress and sewed on the marked line.

I cut bottom portion of dress. Cutting off the corner for a neater fit. I angled the cut back from the seam

Here is a view of the dress after the raw edges have been finished using a zigzag stitch

Jubee in her new dress

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